24th April 2014

Root of Strongback

Last night I got the news that the man who held this strong-back in his hand a couple of weeks ago, the man who was so full of hope for staying power in his sexual encounter, the man who was amazed by how much I could tell about him from his date of birth using numerology, the man who was eager to learn more about the power of visualization as a way of creating a more promising future, the man who told me with tears in his eyes of his mother’s death and the way he felt she was guiding him in life. This man was murdered, shot in his own home.

It happened a week after he came to my hotel room and took part in an NLP (Neuro Linguistic Programming) time-line session. He had participated fully and when he reached his desired goal in his head it was fully reflected in his body. His shoulders were back, his head up, and his hands akimbo. He was, in that moment, the man he desired to be.

It was an unusual session because his ancestors were there willing him on. Through me they told him ‘it’s your time now.’ We both believed they meant it was his time for success – not that it was his time to join them.

I’ve spent many hours reprimanding myself for not understanding the message, but I’ve been reminded by some loving friends that my job is to deliver the message – not to work it out.

I can’t say I’m enjoying this work, especially as this man’s death is such a vivid reminder of the most fearful side of Jamaica. Sometimes it hard to remember that what Jamaica needs is not condemnation but love.

The world famous Rick’s Cafe

Rick’s Cafe is rated the 10th best cafe in the world, I thought it was worth taking a look.

Unfortunately it was a rainy day so there was no spectacular sunset, but there were plenty of American tourist. Many came in on the pleasure catamarans that pulled up right into the cove; others came by bus and taxi.

Catamarans arriving at Rick’s Care

It was fun to watch the official cliff divers (for a tip) and the rookies bracing themselves to take the plunge.

Thinking about jumping

Go GIRL

Landed in one piece

As the menu catered mainly to American tastes (even priced in American dollars) my guide took me to a sweet little Jamaican place not many steps away from Ricks. Swordfish Restaurant. 

Sword Fish Restaurant not far from Rick’s Cafe. Try the lobster and shrimp dish Yum! Yum.

He recommended the lobster and shrimp dish – well, not so much recommended as he ordered it and I copied – served with rice and peas. Oh my Lord, I did not want it to end.

Monday 24th March 2014

Turn left out of the Global Villa Hotel,

walk a few hundred yards, turn right at the sign that points to Bulls Bay Neighbourhood Watch,

walk past a very littered outcrop, become disappointed and disillusioned with what is supposed to be the closest beach, decide this could not possibly be a public beach, walk on further, ask a man where the beach is, take his advice and walk another few hundred yards, come across a secluded bay with water so clear you could make your tea with it,

Bulls Bay Beach

marvel that there are only two people in it at 6.30 a.m., walk on a little further to a second bay, only one person here working out and getting into the water, know that this will be your spot each morning for the next two weeks, know that you have found a personal piece of paradise.

Continue your walk of discovery past flowers opening to the rays of the sun, revel in the caress of the wave’s constant whispers, stop and have a chat with a man who tells you that if you continue you will come to a fishing village called Lances Bay, take a detour past Pedro,

Welcome to Pedro

a community of mansions guarded by palms and broad leafed almonds, rejoin your route into the slowly awakening Lances Bay, say hello to the man walking by with a huge fish on a hook, listen to the morning noises coming from the house built on stilts,

House built on stilts

walk past the fisherman repairing his boat along the long crescent beach, have a chat with the man doing press-ups to impress you, thank him for sharing his knowledge of Lances River which runs into the sea, and his tales of swimming in it as a boy before becoming too afraid of the crocodiles Know that you have found a personal piece of paradise.

Man repairing boat at Lances Bay

Walk back to your hotel in time for a cooked breakfast of ackee and salfish, roast breadfruit, boiled green bananas and yellow yam. Know that you have found a personal piece of paradise.

Sunday 23rd March 2014

The taxi picked us up this morning at 7.30 to take us to the Knutsford Express bus station in New Kingston. The slick operation of the Kingston to Negril service left five minutes before our 8.30 scheduled departure as we were full.

Very comfortable Knutsford Express coach

It was a most delightful trip. Our route took us to the edge of Clarendon, past Linstead, Ewarton, before branching up to Fern Gulley. I have fond memories of Fern Gully. As a 21 year old undergraduate Biology student I did part of my field study here tracking the many different species of ferns that grow here. There’s a broody feel to the gully, broken occasionally with vibrant splashes of red flowers.

An hour and a half after leaving Kingston we were in Ocho Rios and I began to feel the vacation atmosphere. Hard not to as we drove past miles and miles of resorts, Sandals, Couples, and Riu to name but a few.

Quite a number of passengers decanted here, and we made a ten minute stop for food and toilet. Unfortunately the only food on offer was manish water* and curry goat and rice. As I don’t eat red meat and it was too early to start on the alcohol from the bar, I settled for a bottle of water.

We made a brief drop off stop at Falmouth before pulling into Montego Bay at 12.30 p.m. which was the final destination for all but five of us. We were decanted into a smaller bus and told our leg to Negril would take 85 minutes.

It was ironic that we drove past our hotel in Hanover to get to Negril and had to get a taxi at a cost of approximately £15 to come back to it.
I stayed awake throughout the seven hour it took door-to-door because I didn’t want to miss a single sight of this amazingly beautiful island of mountains, valleys, rivers and sea. I could fully appreciate why Jamaica is called the land of wood and water.

*Manish water = soup made from the testicles of the goat

Saturday 22nd March 2014

Lorna and Don – my amazing hosts

If you are ever in Kingston make an effort to head out to Port Royal to Gloria’s Fish Place. You will understand why people come for miles to sample the array of fish on offer.

Escovich fish – could only manage the small one, asked for a box to take the big one home but gave it to a man who asked for it as we were leaving

I had the Escovish fish with fried bammy*, my firend the garlic prawns also with fried bammy, and her husband the steamed goat fish with seamed bammy. (I didn’t realise you could steam bammy).

Steam fish and bammy

The place was heaving when we got there, and although we had placed our order half an hour before we arrived it still took 45 minutes before we got it.

Me, Lorna and a host of other people at Gloria’s all there to enjoy the fish

The wait gave us a chance to catch up with a couple of my friend’s husbands friends –also out there to eat fish. They were two brothers who are both doctors at the University of the West Indies; named Disraeli and Clinton.
*Bammy – a round cake made of ground cassava.

Saturday 22nd March 2014

After a long night of catching up with my friend that I’ve not seen since we were both 17 years old, it was past midday before we sat down to the delicious brunch of salt fish, cabbage, plantain, yam, dashine, and dumplings that she had prepared.

Relaxing fish

During our meal her husband received two calls from friends who had previously lived in England. They agreed to come over for drinks and it felt like we had an instant party.

We sat out on their veranda unaffected by the overcast and occasionally drizzly day outside and soothed by the gently swaying of my friend’s fish. It’s one of the great things about living in hot countries – rain does not equate with cold.

Rain cannot spoil the fun with views like this

After a life time of drinking my rum with coke I was introduced to a new mixer. Ting is a Jamaican grapefruit soda which works remarkably well with Wray and Nephew white over proof rum (70% by volume) and lashings of ice. Slipped down way too easily, and very moreish.

It was a meeting of Directors and CEOs of diverse organisations such as transport, University, power and shipping. These were people at the top of their game who had travelled extensively, and the one thing they had in common was their love of Jamaica. We talked about the unique blend that can make this island (for some) the worst and (for others) the best place to live. While some are desperate to leave, others are queuing up to return.